[Dec. 2025] On the day we stayed in Chefchaouen, the blue city of Morocco, we missed lunch, so we looked for a place to eat dinner.
Initially, despite our previous experience, we tried a restaurant we found online that served alcohol, but it was a rather dubious-looking place that made us think, “No way we could enter here.”
It’s truly unfortunate that in Morocco, alcohol seems to have become synonymous with the sex industry.
So, we went to a restaurant that my husband found, which was ranked No. 1 on TripAdvisor.
It was a place called BILMOS, located in what appears to be Plaza Uta el-Hammam, the square in front of the town’s Kasbah.
When we got there, it was like a makeshift canteen, with many similar establishments lined up.
This square and the Kasbah itself were listed as Chefchaouen’s main attractions in our guidebook, so it’s probably a place where tourists gather.
It wasn’t a proper building, and it was half-open, making it extremely cold.
Since it was still early, there weren’t many people yet, so we could choose a table right next to the heater.
We kept our coats on, my husband had couscous and I had a kebab mix with non-alcoholic beer.
The couscous was piping hot, but my kebab got cold very quickly and wasn’t very tasty.
This was Christmas, so this was our Christmas dinner this year.
It was quite pathetic.
The total was 290 dirhams (just under 27 euros), which was more expensive than usual, probably because it was a tourist price.
The cheerful waiter kept the mood lively, so it wasn’t a bad atmosphere.
It was raining on and off in Chefchaouen that day, but when we went outside after dinner, it was raining heavily.
The walk from this square had quite a bit of local life to it, and it was bustling with people wearing djellabas.
On the way back, my GPS wasn’t working properly, and we got quite lost, but getting lost in this labyrinthine town is part of the fun.
The cold rain was a bit of a shame, though.
I was so grateful to finally reach the riad, which was warm inside.
Incidentally, the weather wasn’t great the next morning either.
It’s in the mountains, so I guess that’s to be expected at this time of year.
We continued exploring the town until it was time to leave, but the only tourists out so early in the morning were groups of East Asians.
