[June 2026] The next morning in Edinburgh, Scotland, it was raining.
And it wasn’t just a drizzle; it was a proper downpour.
We had decided to visit Craigmillar Castle—a spot my husband found online—so we set off undeterred by the rain.
This is a “hidden gem” of a castle; it didn’t appear in the guidebook we had relied on during our previous visit to Edinburgh five years ago.
It takes about 30 minutes from the city centre on the No. 30 bus (one-way fare: £2.40 per person, or approx. €2.80).
I had hoped the rain would stop during the ride, but it was still pouring heavily when we got off at the nearest stop, Craigmillar Castle Road.
To reach the castle, you have to cut across a wild, natural park.
“It’s really a day for art museums, isn’t it?” and “The ruins might be slippery and dangerous,” my husband and I remarked as we walked; at one point, the rain became so intense that we seriously considered turning back.
However, we decided that since we had come this far, we should at least see the exterior.
We continued along the park path until we reached an open area where the castle came into view in the distance.
The building straight ahead at the end of the path was the ticket office.
The admission fee was £8.50 per person (£6.80 for those 65 and older)—quite pricey.
The place was quiet, though I saw a guide leading a small group around; we chose not to join them and instead wandered freely on our own.
Then, the rain stopped!
A little bit of sunlight even broke through.
Scottish weather is truly unpredictable.
I was so glad we hadn’t turned back.
As for the castle itself, it was built in the late 14th century and later expanded.
Mary, Queen of Scots, is said to have stayed there.
It is said that while she was recuperating at the castle after childbirth, nobles plotted the assassination of her husband, Lord Darnley, right there on the premises.
Although her relationship with her husband had already gone cold, it does not appear that she actually ordered the assassination.
However, she fell under suspicion; furthermore, she was forced to remarry the very man who masterminded the plot, ultimately suffering a tragic downfall.
The castle itself met a gentler fate.
As trends shifted in the 18th century, the owners moved from this stone castle to a more comfortable residence.
Consequently, the castle fell into ruin, eventually becoming a historic site that retains much of its original form.
As is often the case with such places, it has reportedly served as a filming location for dramas and movies.
I love the unique atmosphere of castle ruins like this one.
From the rooftop, we had a beautiful, sweeping view of the city of Edinburgh in the distance.
