Seeking Schweinshaxe

Seeking Schweinshaxe

[Apr. 2025] As soon as we arrived in Stuttgart, Germany, we got off the train and headed to a restaurant called Paulaner am alten Postplatz.

When we got there, it was a wooden restaurant that reminded us more of a pub or beer hall than a restaurant.

window decoration at at Paulaner am alten Postplatz, a restaurant in Stuttgart, Germany
at the window of the restaurant

It seemed to be a popular place, and even though it was an odd time around 3pm, there were quite a few people there.

On the ground floor, an older woman gestured to us to go to the second floor, so we had to go up the stairs with our suitcases.

Here, we were told that if we stay only about one hour, we could have a seat, because they had another booking after that.

We accepted and settled down there.

The reason we went out of our way to go to this restaurant was because ever since we decided to go to Germany, my husband had been determined to eat Stinco in Germany.

two glasses of dark beer at Paulaner am alten Postplatz, a restaurant in Stuttgart, Germany
delicious German dark beer

The pork shank dish called Stinco in Italy is called Schweinshaxe in Germany.

I had searched for restaurants that served good Schweinshaxe beforehand, and this was one of the places that came up.

However, Italian Stinco and German Schweinshaxe are similar but not exactly the same dishes.

The German version is crispy and quite hard on the outside, while the meat inside is soft and rich in flavour.

It was so delicious that it was worth the trip.

It was huge, so we shared one plate for two people, which was just the right amount.

It came with sauerkraut and some strange dumplings.

The sauerkraut was lighter and drier than I expected, but the herb flavour was strong, and I was convinced that it was a German taste.

The dumplings are called knödel.

Come to think of it, I’ve heard that before.

Apparently there is a potato version and a bread version, but I think we probably ate the bread version.

I don’t really like chewy things like this, so my husband ate most of it.

a waiter at Paulaner am alten Postplatz, a restaurant in Stuttgart, Germany
many customers were tourists

We drank dark beer together.

German dark beer is really delicious!

It’s completely different from the British Guinness and Bitter, and has a slightly sweet taste, which I love.

Unfortunately, it’s not very popular in Italy, so at home we drink the only bottled Czech dark beer that’s sold in supermarkets.

We were full, so we paid the bill without dessert.

It was only €38.50, which was a bargain.

the sign of Paulaner am alten Postplatz, a restaurant in Stuttgart, Germany
the sign of the restaurant outside

This restaurant was also frequented by many tourists, including groups of Chinese and British people.

The waiters were wearing lederhosen perhaps for their attraction.

But if you want to eat Schweinshaxe, it’s worth going.

I regret not being able to visit again during our stay in Stuttgart.