[July 2026] In Otranto, in the southern Italian region of Apulia, our first-choice restaurant happened to be closed for lunch on Thursdays— and it was a Thursday.
My husband mentioned that the owner—or someone who appeared to be the owner—was there getting things ready for dinner and remarked, “You have to give the staff at least half a day off a week, after all.”
It seems they are incredibly busy during the peak summer season.
In fact, walking through the town, it felt so thoroughly touristy—bustling with crowds—that it was hard to get a sense of Otranto’s own unique character; it could just as easily have been Mykonos or Dubrovnik.
So, we headed to our second choice: a seafood tapas restaurant called Marinero.
They had only outdoor tables, but the place was so crowded and chaotic that it was hard to relax.
To make matters worse, the waitress would whisk away our empty plates the instant we finished, which made us feel rushed—something I really didn’t like.
That said, everything we ate was delicious.
We ordered octopus *polpette* (similar to *takoyaki*, but different), *Alice Gustose* (opened anchovies served with a slightly spicy sauce), *burrata di mare* (creamy, authentic burrata topped with anchovies), and *bruschetta di mare*.
Including a half-bottle of white wine, water, and coffee, the total came to €68.
I recall that in the past, if you ordered an *antipasto misto* in Apulia, you’d be served a mountain of these small, tapas-style plates—enough to leave you completely full—but that wasn’t our experience this time.
When it came time to pay, the waitress spent a while telling my husband all about her eye surgery—a moment that felt quintessentially Italian.
Since most of the other guests appeared to be foreigners, perhaps she was hoping to strike up a conversation with my Italian husband.
After our meal, we went for a short stroll and made our way to the seaside.
Along the way, I stopped in my tracks—we had arrived at the entrance to Palazzo Mori.
We had stayed here on two previous occasions.
It’s such a stylish hotel; I’m sure the rates are well beyond my reach these days.
The colour of the sea is absolutely dazzling—it’s enough to lift anyone’s spirits.
Nearby, by what looked like a marina, people were out swimming.
Well then, it’s time for our first swim of the summer!
We’re heading to a beach called Baia dei Turchi, located a little way outside of town.
